I must be
honest, I was not expecting the futebol match in Curitiba to live up to the
hype that we were presented with in class. Most of the time in our futebol
focused class, I was comparing each aspect of the game, fans, and culture to
sports in the US; namely baseball. I could name at least 20 guys from my
hometown that have either Yankees or Mets tattoos, like the ones shown to us
for each of Sao Paulo’s teams. I could relate the devotion to the team from
your home area to the same devotion I see to New York and Boston teams. I could
relate the arguments and possible violence to fights that I had always heard of
back in the states. Finally, I could relate the racial struggles in the history
of the game to the similar fight for desegregation of professional leagues in
the US.
Although all
of these relations exist, futebol brings these aspects to a whole new level.
The energy in the stadium was electric, with the sound of drums and jumping
fans constantly pounding your chest. The stadium was packed, and I found very
few people not wearing the team’s green jerseys. Nearly everyone stood for the
entirety of the play time, and the chants never stopped, even when big events occurred
on the field. Likewise, gigantic flags constantly waved in the stands, with
nobody in those sections complaining about the view of the game because they
were seemingly just so happy to be there. Even the visitor’s section was filled
to the brim with screaming fans clad in red and black. I could not believe my
senses, and I was easily dragged into the excitement, chanting, cheering, and
jeering from the concrete bleachers whenever the crowd signaled to do so.
Although I
greatly enjoyed this intense energy, there were some negative aspects. While we
were welcomed to the tame section of the bleachers by some older women, the
attitude toward us outsiders was much different in the hardcore fan section. On
one hand, this aversion to outsiders is representative of the tight-knit
community that exists within the Coritiba club, it also lends itself to violent
tendencies that ruin the spirit of sportsmanship. This intensity is both what
makes a futebol match so great, and so terrifying. Another unfortunate aspect
was the obvious absence of racial diversity. A majority of the crowd looked
more European in origin. However, I am not sure if this is because of the more
European population of Southern Brazil, or because of the German origins of
this historic club.
Nevertheless,
it was truly special to have the experience that Thomas spoke so highly of. I loved
the atmosphere of the free standing room on the bleachers. The pure energy flowing
through those stands was impressive, regardless of some of this energy being
negative (especially when Coritiba started to lose). I now have a much better
understanding of why Brazilians love futebol, and why it is such an integral
part of their culture.